another home sweet home

this was my home in harare, zimbabwe. unless you were in a very poor area, every house was protected by some kind of fence - usually barbed wire or broken pieces of glass ran along the top. we had a fence, barbed wire, 3 tier electrical wiring PLUS two security guards. houses in swaziland usually don't have the electric wiring.

I moved out of my homestay yesterday and it was actually a very hard thing to do. When I originally started this internship in Zimbabwe (which seems like ages ago), I was living in a house. When I came to Swaziland I was told I’d have to do a homestay. I wasn’t happy. The family turned out to be quite nice. The mother was very kind and I could tell we could have been friends – if there wasn’t the whole ‘hostmom/hostdaughter’ dynamic.

I had two main issues that lead to me wanting to move out 1) privacy 2) freedom. I didn’t have a lot of privacy in the house. My room was the family’s common room – everyone had something in the closet that they always seemed to need while I was in there. It may not seem like a big deal but for any of you who have lived and worked in a different country know, at the end of some days you really need a room to call your own.

I also didn’t feel like I had much freedom. I wasn’t given keys to the house so anytime I came home after the gate and doors where locked I’d have to call my hostmom and wake her up to let me in. Even if I did have the keys the guard dog would have attacked me.

I told ‘M’ on Sunday that I’d be leaving Tuesday. I hadn’t been there for 2 weeks so she wasn’t surprised. She said she wasn’t angry and that she understood but yesterday when I went to get my things she didn’t say much. I hope I didn’t burn any bridges. Sometimes you just gotta do what’s best for you, even if it does offend some else.

I’m now renting a bachelor apartment on a farm. 2 other friends rent rooms in the house. I have space and privacy and live in a gorgeous part of the country. Since August I’ve lived in 3 different homes and at least a dozen hotels. If I make it longer than 4 weeks it’ll be an African best!

workshop

I attended a very interesting workshop over the weekend dealing with working women’s rights, the new constitution and CEDAW (Convention on the Elimination on all forms of Discrimination against Women). On the first day, we discussed the categories of sex and gender. For most participants, it was the first time that they had heard of gender being a social construct. Many could not understand (nor want to believe) that men and women are taught their behaviours – men are not ‘naturally’ superior and women ‘naturally’ inferior. Some of the men were getting very angry and I think threatened by the discussion. I was getting frustrated because the issue is nothing really to discuss to me – it’s just fact. I quickly realized that if I want to work with gender issues/women’s rights while I am here, I need to learn how to discuss this topic without getting frustrated. It may take a long time for people to understand but it is essential if we are to help women.

The discussion became equally interesting when we started discussing human rights and what it means. Again I thought it was obvious – equal and fair treatment of all regardless of sex/gender/race/sexual orientation/religion and so forth. When stating our definitions everyone but myself said that human rights were given from god. We got into a lively debate when I tried to explain that I was uncomfortable with that definition as they were using the Christian god and what about all of those people who didn’t believe in that god? They were equally confused (and some outraged) with my category of sexual orientation.

Learning about Swaziland’s new constitution was very interesting for all of us. While it states it is a democratic country, there is a section giving the king ultimate authority and being above the law. It states he and anyone he orders to do anything will not be subject to the laws nor have to appear in court and so forth. There is also a section on social objectives. Within this section it states that “the state shall ensure gender balance and fair representation of marginalized groups in all constitutional and other bodies” along with other equally important social promises. Right before these sections is this little beauty “the provisions of sections 57 – 63 inclusive are not enforceable in any court or tribunal.” Lovely……..

We all left the second day discussing the various aspects that we had found so interesting. I know everyone learnt something and that we all realized there is a lot of work to do, especially in the realm of women’s rights.

Cindy walks into my office yesterday and hands me a document that I had been looking for. I ask her how her weekend was. She tells me that she went to visit her brother who is sick. “He is infected” she states. Infected = HIV positive. She explains that he has recently started ARV treatment and is feeling much better. His wife, in denial of being infected, refused treatment and has died. So has his eldest daughter. I tell her I am very sorry and that I will pray for him (Swaziland must be the most religious country in the world). I normally don’t pray but I did last night. She thanks me and asks for some computer training when I have some time. I say no problem and she leaves my office.

I’ve been thinking about this conversation all day. To tell a virtual stranger something so personal in such a public and open setting has left me speechless. I have no idea how to describe how I’m feeling. To her and to too many Swazis, the reality of HIV/AIDS is nothing shocking nor worthy of a ‘private’ conversation. Swaziland has the highest rate of HIV/AIDS in the world. You honestly can’t go more than an hour without hearing someone talk about it, read a billboard about it or read a newspaper in which the topic isn’t discussed on every page. EVERY PAGE. EVERY DAY. ALL DAY.

December 1st is World AIDS day. Please wear a red ribbon.

weekend of peace and quiet!

Had a wonderful weekend. Went camping at a place called Ngwempisi (still having trouble with the multiple consonant sounds). It’s a community tourist initiative where all the proceeds from the camp go into the local communities. The eco-camp is set in the mountains in this extremely rural part of Swaziland. There was no electricity but we did have running water.

All of the hikers/campers shared on big hut built along side the mountain. Everything used to build the hut was taken from the land – stone walls, local wood and so forth. One wall of the hut was the face of the mountain (rock), ¼ was wood/stone and the rest was all open concept. I could see the stars from the top of my bunk bed. The best part was the washroom. It had proper plumping and a shower but it was completely outside. You’d sit on the toilet and you could almost hang your feet over the side of the mountain. Despite the cold water it was the best shower I’ve ever had – I almost felt like I was in Japan again preparing for an onsen. It felt so nice just to relax and hear nothing but birds, wind in the trees, the river below and the occasional dog barking.

1. entrance to the hut
2. bathroom
3. moi

random writings

on the way to mozambique

I sometimes wish I could teleport what my eyes are seeing into your head. It’s the everyday little things that make life so interesting.
***
Walking to and from the konbi rank (minibus station) is always interesting. Even though this country has a population of less than 1,000,000 and Manzini less than 100,000, the konbi rank is a combination of bus fumes, mass crowds, vendors, drunks, business men/women, honking, sweat and unbelievable noise. As I walk there after work, I pass vendor after vendor (called hawkers) selling fruits, veggies, clothes, airtime for cell phones, shoes, candies, newspapers and so forth. The hawkers line both sides of the street, behind them are various shops and bakeries. In front of the hawkers are pedestrians trying to find space on the side walk. Beside the pedestrians are men resting on their cars with their car door open. There are no formal taxis here, just men with cars who take passengers wanting a ride. They greet me with “hey baby…need a taxi.” It drives me crazy. I’M NOT YOUR BABY!! On the other side of the ‘taxis’ is mixture of j-walkers, cars, buses and konbis. From 4-6pm it is virtually a standstill. I hope for the best every time I try and cross the street. I find my konbi, if I’m lucky it’s almost full and we don’t need to sit around waiting for it to fill up. If I’m unlucky I have to sit in the back row where they squeeze four passengers.
My drive takes about 20minutes. Getting out of the station is a nightmare. Konbi drivers are seriously the best drivers in the world. I have no idea how they manoeuvre in such tight conditions. Once we get out of the ‘city’ and into my hood we pass mud huts, barbed wire fields, cattle, chickens and dogs in the road, men selling corn being roasted in a big metal can, children playing with plastic bottles, a few shops and so forth. I love looking out the windows and always see something new.
***
I love feeling hungry and stepping outside my office. Do I buy from the fruit vendor? Do I want peaches, pears (the best ever), oranges, bananas or apples? Not in the mood for fruit….corn corn and more corn. Boiled or barbequed? I love it.
***
Dear African Woman: Please teach me to balance buckets of fruit on my head. How do you carry a baby on your back (wrapped in a towel), two pales of water in each hand and a bundle of something on your head? When you see me wearing pants do you really think that means I’m ‘easy’? How do you feel when your husband takes a second and third wife?
***
How hot is it? When the wind blows it feels like someone is pointing a hairdryer at me.

mozambique weekend get-a-way

leanne and susan in the back of a truck during one of our hitch hiking missions

boy getting ready to dance
Went to Maputo, Mozambique for the weekend and had a great time. We were there for just short of 48 hours but took full advantage of our time. We didn’t realize that Saturday was Maputo’s 120th ‘birthday’ and the city was in full throttle party mode by 5pm. We hit an outdoor festival/dance party and I’ve never seen so many people in my life. We were a little nervous at times but I couldn’t stop myself from dancing. The people there (especially the men) can DANCE. One gentleman and I had a serious dance off and when we finished we were surrounded by people cheering and wanting to join in. By 11 some of the girls I was with wanted to go however myself and another girl wanted to stay. Luckily two Afrikaans men who we met at the hostile offered to stay with us and act as our body guards. As much as I hated needing someone big and strong, I definitely felt safer. ‘Tube’ (because he looked like he had a tier around his stomach) told me later some Mozambiqian men were trying to buy me from him….for one beer!! Please! I was so offended. Lol

We visited a really remarkable art gallery where local artists had collected weapons from the recent civil war and made pieces of furniture and art from them. It was really interesting. I realized I know nothing about this country and need to do some research, especially because I plan on going back again.

Mozambique is really different compared to other countries I’ve visited in the region. Hardly anyone spoke English and we didn’t speak any Portuguese. It made me feel like I was travelling again. We hitchhiked as often as possible cramming cars and filling the backs of trucks. Not to brag but I did do all the hitching! Next time I hope to hit the beaches as swim in the warm ocean water.

Did I mention we ate seafood all weekend long? I forgot how much I missed the smell of the ocean and the wonderful tastes of sea creatures.

orphans' kitchen

Why do I forget my camera every morning? I could kick myself. I swear I’m going to leave here with 5 photos.

I attended a meeting at a primary school yesterday. The school was exactly like something you’d see on one of those TV shows asking for donations for ‘poor’ Africa: cracked, faded chalkboards, wooden benches badly needing repair, window panes with the glass smashed out, a church in the yard that looked like it had been under a bomb attack and of the course the children - bare foot and wearing faded, ripped uniforms holding empty bowls as they waited for the first meal of the day (12:30pm). They were very interested in my being there. We shared a lot of smiles, high fives, ‘thumbs up’ signs and so forth.

It’s called an orphan’s kitchen because most of the students at the school are orphans. I was told many live in homes without adults. Most of their parents had died (I assume from HIV/AIDS but I’m not sure). Because they have no one to take care of them, the eldest child becomes the head of the household and raises his/her siblings. I asked if anyone visited the house to make sure they were ok but I was told probably not. This kitchen was their only source of food.

During the meeting a woman got up and asked for some help. She runs the orphans’ kitchen and had run into some problems. An international NGO based in Manzini had donated some maize. Maize is a staple food here. While she was happy with the donation she did not have the equipment nor the funds to process the maize (it can’t be eaten until it becomes mealy meal – sorry not sure of the technical production terms). When my translator told me this I couldn’t believe it! Is this a normal occurrence? Do NGOs not research where they are donating their goods? Did they know that the food was going to be completely useless until this woman could fundraise enough money to process the maize or get the equipment? Meanwhile I’m watching all of these children holding their bowls waiting for lunch and wondering when the current supply of mealy meal would be finished. I was on a mission – contact the NGO, find out what was going on and get this maize ready to be eaten!


I was speaking with my supervisor this morning and told her what had happened and that I needed to contact this NGO. She said next week I could go back to the school/kitchen with a field officer, pick up the maize, take it to a mill, have it ‘produced’ and take back to the kitchen! I couldn’t be happier. However now I’m worrying…..what will they do next time? Is my one time help really beneficial as it’s creating an unsustainable solution/dependence?

culture sharing

me, modo (host mom) and mpiwa

wawa (10) and mpiwa (6) making hallowe'en masks

Canadian culture to Swaziland!

I brought Hallowe’en to Japan and now I’ve brought it to Swaziland. Last week I went trick or treating with my host brothers and it was so much fun. Over the weekend I had purchased an art kit and some paper plates. All week long we made masks – cats, butterflies, spiderman, scary things and so forth. It was good to be able to bond with them. Susan, (another cci intern) lives down the road from me. She and Carolyn (another intern) went to Susan’s house after work while I went home to get the boys. To their confusion I made them carry their pillow cases (I did try to explain but it was lost in translation). Along the way to Susan’s house I taught them the Hallowe’en ‘chant’. They loved it (or at least the candy). Gazi, the 21 sister who lives with me, came along too. They were disappointed to learn that Hallowe’en is only once a year.

Last week we had a sports day to raise money for Megan and her purse project (see previous entries). One of the events was ultimate frisbee. I was so surprised to learn that the Swazis and Aussies had never played frisbee before! It was such a fun match although I became very competitive…..it was shocking, I yelled at an 11 year old girl “10 second rule 10 second rule!” I am now trying to organize a weekly ultimate frisbee session.

Totally unrelated….it’s sooooooooo hot. I really can’t describe it. I think yesterday was the hottest day I’ve ever experienced. Luckily I heard the good news that December is the hottest month. I can’t even imagine what it’ll be like. I am enjoying my heat rash though. Very sexy.